I have a GE Model JT5000SF oven. In the control panel, the word DOOR with an icon of a padlock is flashing and the oven light is on. None of the controls work. The latch to lock the door is out and the door will not close because of the latch being out and not at its normal inward position. What do I do to get things back to normal? I have tried killing the power to the unit but that does not do anything. HELP!
It Is Fixed
We’re sorry to hear about your troubles with your door oven.
The door lock is a safety feature to prevent burns. The door locks when the oven is hot and should unlock when the oven is cool.
We typically see an issue where the door won’t unlock when a user has attempted a self-clean cycle on their oven, especially when the self-clean feature is canceled before it is complete. We generally recommend not using the self-cleaning feature for oven maintenance because it is known to frequently cause problems, regardless of the model.
Sometimes an oven door lock gets stuck after a power outage as well. Regardless of the reason, you want to solve it quickly so you can use your oven again!
The first troubleshooting step we would recommend would be to disconnect the oven from the power and leave it for five minutes before reconnecting the power. Since you’ve already tried this and it didn’t work there are a couple of other things to try.
On the oven control panel, press the clock or “set clock” button and the “cancel / off” button at the same time and hold for 10 seconds.
If this doesn’t work, open the oven door and look for the oven light switch inside the oven. Hold the oven light switch down and press the “cancel / off” button.
Unfortunately, if the door lock is still engaged, you may have a defective locking mechanism, or there may be an issue with the temperature sensor. In this case, we recommend contacting a local oven repair service for additional assistance.
I hope this helps! Let us know if this resolved the issue for you.
Thank you for contacting It Is Fixed!
I have a new smart refrigerator. It’s less than a year old, but the ice maker is not working. The ice maker is not clogged and the freezer is getting cold. My refrigerator is displaying the fault code FILTERCHG, which means I need to change my water filter. The water filter isn’t that old and I was hoping to wait a little longer before changing it. Is this some sort of refrigerator DRM? Could the error be locking down my ice maker? Is there a way to clear the error?
It Is Fixed
It is unlikely that your refrigerator is holding your ice maker hostage in order to convince you to replace the water filter. However, the issue may be connected. In some refrigerator models, the water line that supplies the ice maker and water dispenser connect through the same water filter. If the filter is clogged, water can’t get through to create ice.
For standard refrigerator maintenance, we recommend cleaning the ice maker every three months and changing the water filter every six months. You stated that this is a fairly new refrigerator. There are situations where routine maintenance will need to be more frequent. If you live in an area with hard water (water with a high concentration of dissolved minerals), your water filter may need to be changed often.
We recommend changing your refrigerator’s water filter and giving the unit a few hours to make new ice. If the ice maker is still not working, you may need the assistance of a home refrigerator repair service.
My new condo has a built-in Sub-Zero refrigerator, but it doesn’t get cold. The previous owner believed that all the unit needed was a new compressor. How much does it cost to replace a compressor on a Sub-Zero refrigerator? Is it something I can do myself?
It Is Fixed
Thanks for the question, Kristen.
If your refrigerator has a faulty compressor, it would definitely be the reason for your warm refrigerator. There are other potential causes so it is a good idea to check the most common causes for a refrigerator that can’t get cold first. The compressor is a major component, and is much more expensive than other, more easily replaced parts.
It would help the diagnostic process to check your refrigerator display for fault codes. For example, EC 15 on a Sub-Zero refrigerator indicates a problem with the sealed system (compressor), but EC 05 to EC 08 indicates a faulty thermistor. Thermistors are much less expensive and easier to replace, so we definitely recommend verifying the issue before attempting any major repairs.
To answer your original question, the price of a Sub-Zero compressor varies depending on the model. As of the time of this response, the base price ranges from $145 to $400.
Replacing the compressor on any brand of refrigerator is a significant task, and not recommended for someone who is not experienced with refrigerator repair. This is especially true if you have a built-in or wall unit. To prevent damage to your home and appliance, it is best to leave this repair to trained specialists.
The price of labor will vary based on your location and the appliance repair service you use. As a Sub-Zero refrigerator repair service in the Atlanta area, our labor fee would start around $400 but may be more based on the model.
Although the cost to repair a Sub-Zero refrigerator may seem high, a new unit can range between $10,000 and $20,000. With high-end refrigeration brands like Sub-Zero, repair is almost always the most economical option.
Hi. We have a GE oven with the model number JT5000SF-1SS. We recently used the self-cleaning mode on the oven. Now the oven light stays on, and the oven won’t heat up. We hear the door lock click when we close the door, but the oven light still stays on. What is the problem?
It Is Fixed
I live in a small apartment where nothing is full-sized. I have a refrigerator and freezer unit in two separate cabinets. The freezer doesn’t quite fit in the cabinet. I had to take off the door to install the unit. The door is not sealing properly. I can feel cold air escaping through the bottom of the door, and even small vibrations cause the door to open by itself. If I slam it closed it will stay closed, but I don’t want to damage the freezer I just bought.
Is there anything I can do to improve the seal?
It Is Fixed
The first thing you want to do is make sure that the area around the door is clear so it can close. Empty the freezer and shut the door. If you no longer feel cold air escaping from the around the door seal, the freezer may be too full, or the items may need to be reorganized so that they do not put pressure on the door. Always store heavier items in the freezer compartment instead of on the door shelves.
Open and close the door carefully. If you feel or hear any catches or scraping, the cabinet may not have the clearance for your freezer model. If this is the case, you may want to exchange your freezer for a smaller unit or expand the cabinet.
Inspect the hinges to ensure they are not loose or damaged. If the door wobbles when you open it the hinges may need to be adjusted or replaced.
Next, ensure the rubber door seal did not get damaged when the freezer was installed. The rubber door seal is a rubbery gasket attached to the freezer door that helps keep the cold inside the compartment.
Check for rips, tears, or signs of wear. Replace the gasket if it is damaged.
If the gasket is not the problem, it is possible the freezer is not level. If your model has leveling feet, adjust the front feet so that the front of the freezer is at least half an inch (or 15mm) higher than the back of the freezer.
You can use a thin strip of wood under the front of the unit so gravity will help keep the door closed if your model of freezer does not leveling feet,
If all else fails, a child safety lock can help keep the freezer door closed until you get a chance to replace the unit or schedule a repair.